Adios Pamplona - Hola Puente La Reina

Sunday, October 17 -- posting this from Los Arcos

We left our hotel in the casco antiguo of Pamplona this morning for our walk to Puente La Reina. As we meandered through the modern part of town, we encountered many high rise apartment building, lots of local bakers, florists, and cafes -- all of which reminded us of New York City and its small neighborhoods. It was a quiet Sunday morning and soon we were at the outskirts of the campus of the University of Pamplona -- a gorgeous mix of new and old architecture. A friendly sign directed us to get a stamp at the building dedicated to the Jacobean University. As we approached a very formal pillared entry way we saw several security guards. The doors of the building were locked, so I approached and asked about a stamp. He simply motioned us back to the building and as I turned to follow his arm I saw an open window high above the sidewalk with bars. The keeper of the stamp was inside -- so we stood on tiptoes to give him our credencials and behold we got a stamp!

The rest of the day we climbed up on wonderful hiking trails full of people through woods and residential areas. The hills in front of us were full of windmills -- ah, Don Quixote! Continuing to climb, we passed through tiny hamlets, stopped for breakfast at one, then out once again into the wind -- ah, that is why there are so many windmills! The wind was fierce, but the sky sunny, as we climbed up to the Alto Perdon --the summit of pardon. On this peak there is an enormous metal sculpture of various pilgrims walking and fighting the wind on the top of the hill. A great photo op I will have to share later.

The descent was less windy and we found ourselves in the town of Obanos where the Camino Aragones which comes across Southern France intersects with our route, the Camino Frances. Our Camino crosses the Pyrenees at St. Jean Pied de Port and the Camino Aragones crossed at Somport. Where the Caminos converge is an ancient church -- most fitting.

The way into Puente La Reina -- bridge of the queen -- so called because a queen caused the bridge to be built in the 11th century to capture traffic to Santiago and increase commerce - it worked! -- is down a very narrow medieval street full of ancient stone houses that have been restored and reformed over the years. Our hotel was in one of these old houses with stone arches in the lobby and dining room and gorgeous wooden beams throughout. The church named after Santiago has an incredible gilt retablo -- enormous wooden sculpture that takes up the entire wall behind the altar -- and we stayed to say the rosary.

Later that night at dinner we met a retired couple from near Zurich who have walked the various Caminos -- the route people took from England, from Seville, from northern France, from southern France -- over the past 10 years. Fascinating -- and very inspiring.

NOTE - It grows late and we have a very long day tomorrow so I will say buenas noches to you all. Hopefully I will be able to find another internet connection in the next town and try to catch up on my postings! Thanks for your patience! And the foot is still holding up!