Villafranca to O Cebreiro - 31 k - most arduous stage

Thursday, October 8

This is said to be the most arduous stage of the trip -- ascending into the Galician Alps -- not as strenuous as the stage of the other Alps, but the guidebook keeps stressing how hard a day this will be.

It is not light until 8:30 am, but we did bring headlamps. It is also dark by 8:30 pm.

We started out at 8:15 am -- and it was raining slightly.

We were walking along the highway for a bit -- then more in the country. So far it was not too bad, but when we stopped for lunch at a bakery, I noticed blood on my socks. Terrible blisters on my heels.

Groves and groves of chestnut trees -- castañas in Spanish. We were in villages where people were herding cows down the narrow lanes -- we had to move aside to let them pass. The milk cows have horns and look like they could be dangerous if upset. One cow seemed to find me interesting and stopped to put her nose on my arm and sniff my pack-- then moved on.

After 25 k, we hit the ascent -- 1,280 meters -- you do the math -- it was fine for awhile -- it was a beautiful trail in a chestnut grove. However, I hit the wall about 2 k before the end -- or as John said, the correct modern term is-- I bonked -- my back and hips and feet ached, plus my legs felt rubbery. John gave me some food, some water and started to take my pack to carry it. I refused to let him do that -- so he opened it and just started taking stuff out and putting it into his pack. After a few minutees, I revived enough to go on. I really thought I was going to have lie donw and spend the night on the trail covered by pine boughs only there any pine boughs to be had!

Finally made it into O Cebreiro and stayed in a wonderful little in -- had a great dinner and met two delightful women from Barcelona, Sole and Leos.